You will need

Sport weight cotton or cotton belnd yarn
Chunky weight yarn for hair
Black embroidery thread
Textile pen (red)
8 mm safety eyes
Fiberfill
Tapestry needle
Pins
2.5 mm or a hook that fits your yarn
Scissors

Abbreviations

sc: Single crochet
inc: Increase
dec: Decrease
tr: Treble/Triple crochet dc: Double crochet
Dc: Double crochet
DCinc: Double crochet increase
sl-st: Slip stitch
ch: Chain
st/sts: stitch/stitches
FLO: Front loop only.
BLO: Back loop only.
BL: Bobble Stitch: (Yarn over insert your hook into the st and pull up a loop.Yarn over again and pull through 2 loops) repeat the steps in the same st until you have a total of 5 loops on your hook.Yarn over and pull through all 5 loops at once.
Reverse single crochet: Ch 1, working from left to right, insert your hook into the next st,turn hook to the left side, grab yarn and pull through. There are now 2 loops on your hook. Draw up a loop, bring yarn over the hook again and draw this loop through both loops.
(…)- x times: Repeat the instructions between parantheses x times.
(…): Reprensents the number of sts you should have at the end of the round.

Legs ( Make 2)

Start with green color.
1: 6 sc in a magic ring (6)
2: (inc)- 6 times (12)
3: (1 sc, inc)- 6 times (18)
4: (2 sc, inc)- 6 times (24)
5: 24 sc
6: 2 sc, (dec)- 10 times, 2 sc (14)
7: 3 sc, (dec)- 4 times, 3 sc (10)
8-9: 10 sc
10: Work FLO: (Ch 3, 1 sc)- 10 times
Change to red color. (Change between red and white color in every or every other round for one of the legs. Crochet the second leg in red.)
11: Work BLO: 10 sc (10)
12-22: 10 sc (10)
Crochet the second leg, do not break yarn after Round 22.

Body

With red color.
23: Join two legs by chaining 2 (24)
24: 24 sc (24)
25: (3 sc, inc)- 6 times (30)
26: 30 sc (30)
Change to green color.
27: inc, 24 sc, (inc)- 5 times (36)
28: 36 sc
29: Work BLO: 36 sc
30: 36 sc
31: (4 sc, dec)- 6 times (30)
32-33: 30 sc
34: (3 sc, dec)- 6 times (24)
35-36: 24 sc
37: (2 sc, dec)- 6 times (18)
Change to skin color.
38: Work BLO: 18 sc
39: 18 sc
40: (1 sc, dec)- 6 times (12)
41-42: 12 sc

Head

With skin color.
43: (inc)- 12 times (24)
44: (3 sc, inc)- 6 times (30)
45: (4 sc, inc)- 6 times (36)
46: (5 sc, inc)- 6 times (42)
47-54: 42 sc
55: (5 sc, dec)- 6 times (36)
56: (4 sc, dec)- 6 times (30)
57: (3 sc, dec)- 6 times (24)
58: (2 sc, dec)- 6 times (18)
59: (1 sc, dec)- 6 times (12)
60: (dec)- 6times(6)

Arms ( Make 2)

With skin color.
1: 5 sc in a magic ring (5)
2: (inc)- 5 times (10)
3-5: 10 sc
Change to green color.
6-17: 10 sc
18: (dec)- 5 times (5)

Collar

With green color. Join your yarn into the first st of Round 38 on the body.
1: (DCinc)- 18 times (36)
2: (3 dc in each st)- 38 times (108dc)

Skirt

Start with green color.Join your yarn into the first st of Round 29 on body.
1: (DCinc)- 36 times (72)
2: (DCinc)- 72 times (144dc)
3-4: 144 dc
Change to red color.
5: Ch 1, 144 sc
6: (Ch 3, 1 sc)- 144 times

“Attach safety eyes between Round 50 and 51 with 7 sts between them.
Color sides of eyes with textile pen to form the cheeks.
Embroider eyebrows and lashes with black thread.”

Beanie

Work dc sts, change between red and white color at the beginning of each round.
1: 6 dc in a magic ring (6)
2-3: 6 dc
4: (1 dc, DCinc)- 3 times (9)
5: 9 dc
6: (2 dc, DCinc)- 3 times (12)
7: (1 dc, DCinc)- 6 times (18)
8: (2 dc, DCinc)- 6 times (24)
9: (3 dc, DCinc)- 6 times (30)
10: 30 dc
11: (4 dc, DCinc)- 6 times (36)
12: (5 dc, DCinc)- 6 times (42)
13: (6 dc, DCinc)- 6 times (48)
14-15: 48 dc
16: Work 48 reverse single crochet.

Hair

With chunky weight yarn. Cut 12 pieces of yarn in equal length. Divide each strand into two. Attach each of them on the head using your hook starting from the top. Form the hair and braid them.

More Amigurumi Elf Girl Ideas

You will need

100% cotton yarn in red (ca. 30 grams), white (ca. 30 grams), pink (ca. 10 grams), small amount of black for Santa’s belt, small amount of green for snowman’s hat
Size 2.5 (B/1 ) crochet hook
Embroidery thread in black and orange
Yarn (tapestry) needle
Toy stuffing
Stitch marker (optional)

Abbreviations

ch: chain
sl st: slip stitch
sc: single crochet
scinc: single crochet increase
scdec: single crochet decrease
hdc: half double crochet
hdcinc: half double crochet increase
dc: double crochet
tr: treble (triple) crochet
st(s): stitch(es)

Pattern notes

Work stitches continuously in a spiral without closing off each round with a slip stitch. It may help to use a stitch marker in the first stitch of each round, moving it up as you work.

-Santa-

Body

With red and 2.50 mm (B/1) hook
Ch 2 or make a magic loop.
R1: 5 sc in second ch from hook (5)
R2: 2 sc in each stitch around (10)
R3: 1 sc , 1 scinc, repeat from * 4 times (15)
R4: 2 sc, 1 scinc, repeat from * 4 times (20)
R5: sc in each st around (20)
Change to the black yarn.
R6: sc in each st around (20)
R7-10: sc in each st around (20)
R11: 2 sc, 1 scdec, repeat from * 4 times (15)
R12: 1 sc, 1 scdec, repeat from * 4 times (10)
R13: scdec, repeat from * 4 times (5)
Do not fasten off, but continue working the head.
Change to the pink yarn.
R14: sc in each st around (5)
R15: 2 sc in each stitch around (10)
R16: 1 sc , 1 scinc, repeat from * 4 times (15)
R17: 2 sc, 1 scinc, repeat from * 4 times (20)
R18: 3 sc, 1 scinc, repeat from * 4 times (25)
R19-22: sc in each st around (25)
R23: 3 sc, 1 scdec, repeat from * 4 times (20)
R24: 2 sc, 1 scdec, repeat from * 4 times (15)
R25: 1sc, 1 scdec, repeat from * 4 times (10)
R26: scdec, repeat from * 4 times (5)
Fasten off.

Arms (make 2)

With pink and 2.50 mm (B/1) hook
Ch 2 or make a magic loop.
R1: 5 sc in second ch from hook (5)
R2-4: sc in each st around (5)
Change to the white yarn.
R5: sc in each st around (5)
Change to the red yarn.
R6-8: sc in each st around (5)
Fasten off and sew the arms on both sides of the body.

Hat

With red and 2.50 mm (B/1) hook
Ch 2 or make a magic loop.
R1: 3 sc in second ch from hook (3)
R2: sc in each st around (3)
R3: 2 sc in each st around (6)
R4: sc in each st around (6)
R5: 1 sc, 1 scinc, repeat from * 2 times (9)
R6: sc in each st around (9)
R7: 2 sc, 1 scinc, repeat from * 2 times (12)
R8: sc in each st around (12)
R9: 3 sc, 1 scinc, repeat from * 2 times (15)
R10: sc in each st around (15)
R11: 4 sc, 1 scinc, repeat from * 2 times (18)
R12: sc in each st around (18)
R13: 5 sc, 1 scinc, repeat from * 2 times (21)
R14: sc in each st around (21)
R15: 6 sc, 1 scinc, repeat from * 2 times (24)
R16: 7 sc, 1 scinc, repeat from * 2 times (27)
R17: sc in each st around (27)
Change to the white yarn.
R18: sc in each st around (27)
Fasten off.

Hat Pom Pom

With white and 2.50 mm (B/1) hook
Ch 2 or make a magic loop.
R1: 6 sc in second ch from hook (6)
R2-3: sc in each st around (6)
R3: scdec, repeat from * 2 times (3)
Fasten off and sew on the top of the hat.
Sew the hat onto Santa’s head.
Bend the hat to one side and sew together.

Beard

With white and 2.50 mm (B/1) hook
Ch 12
Row 1: sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each st across, ch 1, turn (11)
Row 2: sc in 1st st, hdc in next, dc in next, treble in next 5 st, dc in next st, hdc in next, sc in next st, sl st to first sc and ch 1
Row 3: sc in next 4 sts, ch 3 {skip 3 sts}, sc in next 4 sts,
Fasten off.
Attach the beard to the face. Sew the sides where the hat meets the face so that the beard is attached to the hat.
Using embroidery thread, embroider the eyes and the two coat buttons.
Add a thread on top of hat.

-Snowman-

Body

With white and 2.50 mm (B/1)hook
Ch 2 or make a magic loop.
R1: 5 sc in second ch from hook (5)
R2: 2 sc in each stitch around (10)
R3: 1 sc , 1 scinc, repeat from * 4 times (15)
R4: 2 sc, 1 scinc, repeat from * 4 times (20)
R5: sc in each st around (20)
R6-10: sc in each st around (20)
R11: 2 sc, 1 scdec, repeat from * 4 times (15)
R12: 1 sc, 1 scdec, repeat from * 4 times (10)
R13: scdec repeat from * 4 times (5)
Do not fasten off but continue working the head.
R14: sc in each st around (5)
R15: 2 sc in each stitch around (10)
R16: 1 sc , 1 scinc, repeat from * 4 times (15)
R14: sc in each st around (5)
R15: 2 sc in each stitch around (10)
R16: 1 sc , 1 scinc, repeat from * 4 times (15)
R17: 2 sc, 1 scinc, repeat from * 4 times (20)
R18: 3 sc, 1 scinc, repeat from * 4 times (25)
R19-22: sc in each st around (25)
R23: 3 sc, 1 scdec, repeat from * 4 times (20)
R24: 2 sc, 1 scdec, repeat from * 4 times (15)
R25: 1 sc, 1 scdec, repeat from * 4 times (10)
R26: scdec, repeat from * 4 times (5)
Fasten off.

Arms (make 2)

With white and 2.50 mm (B/1) hook
Ch 2 or make a magic loop.
R1: 5 sc in second ch from hook (5)
R2-4: sc in each st around (5)
R5: sc in each st around (5)
R6-8: sc in each st around (5)
Fasten off and sew the arms onto both sides of body.

Hat

With green and 2.50 mm (B/1) hook
Ch 2 or make a magic loop.
R1: 5 hdc in second ch from hook (5)
R2: 2 hdc in each st around (10)
R3: 1 hdc, 1 hdcinc, repeat from * 4 times (15)
R4: 2 hdc, 1 hdcinc, repeat from * 4 times (20)
R5: 3 hdc, 1hdcinc, repeat from * 4 times (25)
R6-8: hdc in each st around (25)
Fasten off.

Scarf

With red and 2.50 mm (B/1) hook
Ch 50
R1: 1 hdc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across (49)
Fasten off.
Fold the hat’s last row upwards to create edging and sew it onto the head.
Embroider eyes, mouth and buttons using black embroidery thread.
Embroider a nose using orange embroidery thread
Put on his scarf, add a thread on top of the hat.

More Amigurumi Christmas Ornament Ideas

You will need

Brown yarn for the head and ears.
Beige yarn for the antlers.
Red yarn for the nose.
2.00mm crochet hook
Yarn needle
Fiberfill
6mm safety eyes

Abbreviations

Ch – chain
Sc – single crochet
Sts – stitches
Dec – decrease

Head

Use brown yarn. Work in spiral.
Row 1: Ch 2, 6 sc in second ch from hook. (6 sts)
Row 2: 2 sc in each sc around. (12 sts)
Row 3: Sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 8 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in last sc. (14 sts)
Row 4: Sc in each sc around. (14 sts)
Row 5: Sc in each sc around. (14 sts)
Row 6: Sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 10 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in last sc. (16 sts)
Row 7: Sc in each sc around. (16 sts)
Row 8: Sc in next 5 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 5 sc. (18 sts)
Row 9: Sc in each sc around. (18 sts)
Row 10: Sc, 2 sc, sc in next 4, 2 sc, sc in next 4, 2 sc, sc in next 4, 2 sc,sc (22 sts)
Row 11: Sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 14 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in last 3 sc. (24 sts)
Row 12: Sc in next 8 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 6 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in last 8 sc. (26 sts)
Row 13 – 15: Sc in each sc around. (26 sts)
Row 16: Sc in next 5 sc, dec 1, sc in next 12 sc, dec 1, sc in last 5 sc. (24 sts)
Place 6mm safety eyes. Begin stuffing head.
Row 17: Sc in next 6 sc, dec 1, sc in next 6 sc, dec 1, sc in next 6 sc, dec 1. (21 sts)
Row 18: Sc in next 2 sc, dec 1, sc in next 5 sc, dec 1, sc in next 5 sc, dec 1, sc in last 3 sc. (18 sts)
Row 19: Dec 1, sc 1 repeat 6 times. (12 sts)
Row 20: Dec 1 repeat 6 times. (6 sts)
Fasten off and weave in end.

Ears (make 2)

Use brown yarn. Work in spiral.
Row 1: Ch 2, 6 sc in second ch from hook. (6 sts)
Row 2: 2 sc in each sc around. (12 sts)
Row 3: Sc in each sc around. (12 sts)
Fasten off and leave long end for sewing. Sew to head.

Nose

Use red yarn. Work in spiral.
Row 1: Ch 2, 6 sc in second ch from hook. (6 sts)
Row 2: 2 sc in each sc around. (12 sts)
Row 3 – 5: Sc in each sc around. (12 sts)
Begin stuffing nose.
Row 6: Dec 1 repeat 6 times. (6 sts)
Fasten off and leave long end for sewing. Sew to head.

Antlers 1 (make 2)

Use beige yarn. Work in spiral.
Row 1: Ch 2, 5 sc in second ch from hook. (5 sts)
Row 2 – 7: Sc in each sc around. (5 sts)
Begin stuffing antler.
Row 8: Sc in each sc around. (5 sts)
Fasten off and leave long end for sewing. Sew to head.

Antlers 2 (make 2)

Use beige yarn. Work in spiral.
Row 1: Ch 2, 5 sc in second ch from hook. (5 sts)
Row 2 – 3: Sc in each sc around. (5 sts)
Begin stuffing antler.
Row 4: Sc in next 3 sc. (3 sts)
Fasten off and leave long end for sewing. Sew to Alter 1.

Finishing

Use a brown cord to make a loop on the Rudolph’s head. Tie the ends in a knot. You can hide a knot in Rudolph’s head.

More Amigurumi Reindeer Ornament Ideas

Abbreviations

MR: Magic Ring
CH: Chain
SC: Single Crochet
SL ST: Slip Stitch
INC SC: Increase Single Crochet-make 2 single crochet into 1 stitch
INC HDC: Increase Half Double Crochet-make 2 half double crochet into 1 stitch
INC DC: Increase Double Crochet-make 2 double crochet into 1 stitch
INV DEC: Invisible Decrease
FLO: Front Loop Only
BLO: Back Loop Only
()X…: Repeat everything within the brackets
FO: Fasten Off

You will need

Hook: 3.5 mm, 1-2 mm hook if making embroidered star
Yarn: Worsted Weight: Approx. 125 yards-Green, Fur colour, small amount of red and yellow.
10 mm Safety Eyes or Embroidered Eyes
Buttons, Pearls or Beads for dress closure
Polyfill
Needle
Optional: Stitch Markers and pins, decorative buttons, embroidery thread, tiny ornaments

Other Notes

Magic Ring alternative if you do not feel comfortable doing a magic ring, you can also chain 2 and work the indicated number of stitches into the first chain
Continuous Rounds – The bunny body is completed in continuous rounds
Dress Fitting- Depending on the type of yarn used (stiff vs. loose) and the way in which you complete your SC when making amigurumi (yarn over vs. yarn under), you may find that the dress fits a bit differently than the model. The dress is designed with a bit of extra overlap at the bottom to help with these variances. When sewing on the bottom button, pull the dress across the back until it sits as you like it before fastening.
Stitch Markers – The end stitches when creating the dress can be easy to miss, so I recommend marking the first and last stitch of each row, especially when completing a row after making the shells

Dress

The dress is worked in ROWS, where the CH 1 or CH 2 at the beginning of a new row does not count as a stitch. Two button hole loops are made with CH 5, indicated in the pattern below. Depending on the size of buttons you use, you may need to increase/decrease the number of chains to fit around the buttons. When you get to this stage, check to make sure the loop fits around your button before continuing on.
In this pattern, you will be making a series of rows of shells to shape the branches’ of the dress. These are worked into either the front or back loops of the previous row. The row after the branches are then completed by working into the same row, but in the unworked stitches. It is very easy to lose a stitch or two when working these rows, so I suggest marking the first and last stitch and counting carefully!
In green colour yarn:
R1: CH 32, add additional 5 CH and SL ST to first additional st. Working back across the CH 32,4 SC, CH 5, skip 7 st, 10 SC, CH 5, skip 7 st, 4 SC (18 SC, 5 CH)
R2:CH 1, turn. INC SC, 3 SC, 5 SC around 5 CH, 5 SC, INC SC, 4 SC, 5 SC around 5 CH, 3 SC, INC SC (31 st)
R3: CH 1, turn. (4 SC, INC SC) X6, SC (37 st)
R4: CH 1, turn. In BLO, (SL ST, skip st, 3 INC HDC, skip st) x6, SL ST (43 st) to add second button hole, CH 5, SL ST to first additional CH.
R5: (No CH 1) working into the unworked stitches from R3, 6 SC, INC SC) x6, SC (43 st)
R6: CH 1, turn. (6 SC, INC SC) x6, SC (49 st)
R7: CH 1, turn. In FLO, (SL ST, skip 2 st, 3 INC DC, skip 2 st) x6, SL ST (47 st)
R8: CH1, turn. In unworked stitches from R6, SC across (49 st)
R9: CH 1, turn. SC across (49 st)
R10:CH 1, turn. In BLO, (SL ST, skip 2 st, 3 INC DC, skip 2 st) X6, SL ST (47 st)
R 11: In unworked stitches of R9, CH 1, turn. SC across (49 st)
R12: CH 1, turn. SC across (49 st)
R13: CH 1, turn. (SL ST, skip 2 st, 3 INC DC, skip 2 st) x6, SL ST (47 st) you can choose to work this row in the FLO, but it is unnecessary unless you choose to extend the dress (see below)
FO and weave in ends.
If you wish to extend the dress, you can repeat the last three rows. If you do so, make sure that in R13 you work in the FLO before adding additional rows
To make arm ruffles, connect yarn just before the beginning of the arm strap with a SL ST. working around the chain of the arm strap, 3 SC, 4 HDC, 3 SC, SL ST to stitch after the end of the arm strap. FO, and weave in the ends. Repeat on other side.

Head

In fur colour yarn:
R1: 6 SC into MR (6 st)
R2: INC SC around (12 st)
R3:(SC, INC SC) X6 (18 st)
R4: (2 SC, INC SC) x6 (24 st)
R5:3SC, INC SC) x6 (30 st)
R6:(4 SC, INC SC) X6 (36 st)
R7-R13: SC around (36 st)
R14: (4 SC, INV DEC) x6 (30 st)
Place 10 mm eyes between R10 &11, 5 st apart. If you wish to sew on eyelashes, do not add washers to the back of the safety eyes yet! Remove the eyes once you like their placement, using embroidery thread, sew on two or three eyelashes for each eye, starting where the safety eyes will go and out on an angle. Make sure they are long enough otherwise they will be hidden by the eyes.
Reinsert the eyes and add washers to the back.
Using red yarn, stitch a nose, running the needle through several times horizontally, in line with the eyes, and one time vertically, 2 rows down.
R15: (3 SC, INV DEC) x6 (24 st)
Start stuffing, making sure to stuff VERY firmly
R16: (2 SC, INV DEC) x6 (18 st)
R17: (SC, INV DEC) x6 (12 st)
FO, and finish stuffing. Leave a long piece of yarn for sewing on later.

Body

In fur colour yarn:
R1: 6 SC into MR (6 st)
R2: INC SC around (12 st)
R3: (SC, INC SC) x6 (18 st)
R4: (2 SC, INC SC) x6 (24 st)
R5:3SC, INC SC) X6 (30 st)
R6:04 SC, INC SC) X6 (36 st)
R7-R11: SC around (36 st)
R12:4 SC, INV DEC) x6 (30 st)
R13: SC around (30 st)
R14: (3 SC, INV DEC) x6 (24 st)
R15: SC around (24 st)
R16: (2 SC, INV DEC) x6 (18 st)
R17: SC around (18 st)
Start stuffing, and stuff subsequent rounds, checking to make sure that it is stuffed firmly enough that the dress fits!
R18:(SC, INV DEC) x6 (12 st)
R19: SC around (12 st)
FO, weaving in ends.
Sew head and body together and weave in ends.

Arms (make 2)

In fur colour yarn:
R1: 5 SC in MR (5 st)
R2: INC SC (10 st)
R3-R4: SC around (10 st)
R5:3SC, INV DEC) x2 (8 st)
Stuff tip of hand lightly
R6-R9: SC around (8 st)
To close, pinch sides closed and 4 SC across through top of stitches of both sides. Finish off, leaving length of yarn.
Place the dress around the body with the back held together to determine arm placement. Pin the arms in place and remove the dress. Sew arms to the body and weave in the ends.

Ears (make 2)

In fur colour yarn:
R1:5 SC into MR (5 st)
R2:INC SC around (10 st)
R3: (4 SC, INC SC) X2 (12 st)
R4-R6: SC around (12 st)
R7:04 SC, INV DEC) X2 (10 st)
R8-R11: SC around (10 st)
FO, leaving a long tail for sewing. Flatten ears and pinch base in half, sewing back and forth a few times. Pin ears to the head and sew in place, two to three rows down from the top of the head on either side. Weave in ends.

Legs (make 2)

In fur colour yarn:
R1: 6 SC in MR (6 st)
R2:INC SC (12 st)
R3-5: SC around (12 st)
R6:04 SC, INV DEC) x2 (10 st)
Stuff at base of foot, and continue to lightly stuff up to halfway up the leg
R7: (3 SC, INV DEC) x2 (8 st)
R8-R11: SC around (8 st)
To close, pinch sides closed and 4 SC across through top of stitches of both sides. Finish off, leaving length of yarn.
Pin the legs to the base of the body and sew on. Weave in ends.

Tail

In fur colour:
R1:4 SC in MR (4 st)
R2:INC SC X4 (8 st)
R3:03 SC, INC SC) x2 (10 st)
R4: SC around (10 st)
SL ST to first stitch of row
FO, leaving long tail for sewing. Pin to the back of body so it is positioned in a way that supports it sitting up (a few rows up from the base) and sew to body. Weave in ends.

Finishing Touches

Put the dress on your bunny, noting where the button loops sit, and sew the buttons in place. The back of your dress may overlap near the bottom.

Star

To make a star, use yellow yarn and your 3.5 mm hook for a larger star, or use a small 1-2 mm hook and embroidery thread to make a small star
In yellow colour:
R1: In MR, 5 SC, SL ST to first st (5 st)
R2: (CH 3, SL ST into 2nd and 3rd CH from hook, SL ST in next stitch) x5
FO, leaving tail for sewing to bunny

Ornaments

Attach small bells, or other ornaments to the dress. Sparkly yarn or embroidery
thread can also be used to accent the shells of each shell row of the dress. You can also make your own ornaments by SC 6 into a MR and connecting with a SL ST to the first SC and FO. Play with different sized yarns and hooks for ornaments of different sizes!

More Amigurumi Christmas Bunny Ideas

You will need

3/3.25 crochet hook
Worsted weight yarn
green
cream
orange
yarn needle
6mm safety eyes
black embroidery thread
fiber fill
(optional)polyester pellets/beads

Head

Rnd 1: 6sc into magic ring
Rnd 2: 2sc into each st [12]
Rnd 3: (sc, inc) repeat around [18]
Rnd 4: sc around [18]
Rnd 5: (2sc, inc) repeat around [24]
Rnd 6: (3sc, inc) repeat around [30]
Rnd 7-10: sc around [30]
Rnd 11: (3sc, dec) repeat around [24]
Rnd 12: (2sc, dec) repeat around [18]
Stuff the head with fiber fill and place the eyes and backings at this point. If you wait until later, the opening of the head will be too small to manipulate the eyes well. Thread your embroidery thread onto your needle and sew the mouth as well, You will want to tie the ends of the mouth inside the head before the opening gets too small.
Rnd 13: (sc, dec) repeat around [12]
Rnd 14: 4sc, dec, 4sc, dec [10]
Fasten off and leave a tail

Body

Be careful and patient when starting at the tip of the tail! It can be a bit hard to handle because there are so few stitches and everything is so tight together. Do it slowly and carefully and everything will turn out right!
with green yarn
Rnd 1: 4 st into magic ring
Rnd 2: sc around [4]
Rnd 3: 3sc, inc [5]
Rnd 4: sc around [5]
Rnd 5: 2sc, inc, 2sc [6]
Rnd 6: 2sc, inc, 2sc, inc [8]
with cream yarn
Rnd 7-8: sc around [8]
with orange yarn
Rnd 9: sc around [8]
Rnd 10: 3sc, inc, 4sc [9]
Rnd 11: sc around [9]
with green yarn
Rnd 12-13: sc around
Rnd 14: 4sc, inc,4sc [10]
Rnd 15: sc around [10]
with cream yarn
2 rounds straight [10]
with orange yarn
3 rounds straight [10]
4 rounds of green yarn
2 rounds of cream yarn
3 rounds of orange yarn
repeat this stripe pattern 7 times
end with 4 rounds of green yarn
Fasten off

Assembly

Step 1: Coil the tail end of your snake like this
Step 2: Put a pin here to keep the body from unraveling
Step 3: Holding your snake’s “neck”, make a bend as shown in the picture. You will be pushing it down into the opening created by the coil you have already made.
Step 4: Push it down all the way until it hits the table. Your snake should be fairly stable now.

You are basically done with your snake!   The part of the body that was initially pinned together needs to be sewn together.  You can do this discreetly on the inside/underside of the snake.  You may also want to pick one other spot, maybe where the back of the “neck” touches the back coil.  If you reinforce your snake in those two areas, your little doll should be very stable and stand up nicely on its own!

More Amigurumi Snake Ideas

You will need

Aran/worsted weight cotton yarn in white for the dress and the wings
Aran/worsted weight cotton yarn in skin tone of choice for the face
Fluffy yarn in white or cream for the wings
Yarn for the hair (I use which is a 4-ply/sport weight)
1 pair of 4mm black safety eyes
Black embroidery thread
Toy stuffing (for the head only)
3.5mm/E crochet hook
Yarn needle
Stitch marker
Scissors

Abbreviations

Ch = chain
St(s) = stitch(es)
Sl st = slip stitch
Sc = single crochet
2sc = single crochet 2 in same st
Inv dec = invisible decrease: Insert hook in front loops of next 2 sts, yarn over, pull through both front loops, yarn over, pull through 2 remaining loops
C1 = skin tone of choice
C2 = white
C3 = fluffy yarn for wings
C4 = hair color of choice (I used Twilleys Goldfingering)
Rd = round
R = row

Head

Rd 1: sc 6 in magic ring

Rd 2: 2sc 6 (12)- [sc 1, 2sc 1]*6 (18)

Rd 3: [sc 2, 2sc 1]*6 (24)

Rd 4: [sc 3, 2sc 1]*6 (30)

Rd 5 to 8: Sc 30 (30)

Rd 9: [sc 3, inv dec 1]*6 (24)

Rd 10: [sc 2, inv dec 1]*6 (18)

Rd 11: [sc 1, inv dec1]*6 (12)

Secure your stitch with a stitch marker. Decide where you’d like the eyes to go. Embroider the eyelashes with black embroidery thread, attach the eyes.

Angel’s Hair

Make the crochet angel’s hair with C4
Cut the yarn you chose for the hair in approx. 30cm/12″ long strings. Thread your yarn needle with 3 strings at a time and attach them to the head as shown in the picture below. I used 4ply/ sport weight yarn for the hair. If your yarn is thicker 1 to 2 strings at a time will be enough.

Of course you can attach and style the hair anyway you like. I gave my angel a middle parting and two ponytails.

Before you continue with the body, fill the head with plenty of toy stuffing.

Body

Crochet the body in C2

Change color to C2.

Rd 1: Sc 12- [sc 1, 2sc 1]*6 (18)

Rd 2: [sc 2, 2sc 1]*6 (24)

Rd 3: [sc 3, 2sc 1]*6 (30)

Rd 4 to 12: Sc 30 (30)

Rd 13: Sc 29, sl st 1 (30)

Break yarn, pull through, sew in.

Angel’s Wings

Crochet the angel’s wings in C2 and C4

Crochet the wings with your white cotton yarn and fluffy yarn together as shown in the picture. The cotton yarn will make it easier to see the stitches you made, and will make the wings more thick and sturdy.

Make the right wing

Leaving a long end ch 4

R1: 2sc in 2nd from hook, 2sc 2 (6)

R2: Ch 1, turn, sc 6 (6)

R3: Ch 1, turn, (sc 1, 2sc 1) *3 (9)

R4: Ch 1, turn, sc 9 (9)

R5: Ch 1, turn, (sc 2, 2sc 1)*3 (12)

R6: Ch 1, turn, sc 12 (12)

R7: Ch 1, turn, sc 12 (12)

R8: Ch 1, turn, sc 1, sk 1, sc 10 (11)

R9: Ch 1, turn, sc 9, sk 1, sc 1 (10)

R10: Ch 1, turn, sc 1, sk 1, sc 8 (9)

R11: Ch 1, turn, sc 1, sk 1, sc 5, sk 1, sc 1 (7)

R12: Ch 1, turn, 2sc 1, sc 4, sk 1, sc 1 (7)

R13: Ch 1, turn, sc 1, sk 1, sc 5 (6)

R14: Ch 1, turn, 2sc 1, sc 3, sk 1, sc 1 (6)

R15: Ch 1, turn, sc 1, sk 1, sc 4 (5)

R16: Ch 1, turn, 2sc 1, sc 2, sk 1, sc 1 (5)

R17: Ch 1, turn sc 1, sk 1, sc 2, 2sc 1 (5)

R18: Ch 1, turn, sc 3, sk 1, sc 1 (4)

R19: Ch 1, turn, sc 1, sk 1, sc 2 (3)

R20: Ch 1, turn, sc 1, sk 1, sc 1 (2)

R21: Ch 1, turn, sk 1, sl st 1 (1)

Break yarn, pull through.

Make the left wing

Leaving a long end ch 4

R1: 2sc in 2nd from hook, 2sc 2 (6)

R2: Ch 1, turn, sc 6 (6)

R3: Ch 1, turn, (2sc 1, sc 1) *3 (9)

R4: Ch 1, turn, sc 9 (9)

R5: Ch 1, turn, (2sc 1, sc 2)*3 (12)

R6: Ch 1, turn, sc 12 (12)

R7: Ch 1, turn, sc 12 (12)

R8: Ch 1, turn, sc 10, sk 1, sc 1 (11)

R9: Ch 1, turn, sc 1, sk 1, sc 9 (10)

R10: Ch 1, turn, sc 8, sk 1, sc 1 (9)

R11: Ch 1, turn, sc 1, sk 1, sc 5, sk 1, sc 1 (7)

R12: Ch 1, turn, sc 1, sk 1, sc 4, 2sc 1 (7)

R13: Ch 1, turn, sc 5, sk 1, sc 1 (6)

R14: Ch 1, turn, sc 1, sk 1, sc 3, 2sc 1 (6)

R15: Ch 1, turn, sc 4, sk 1, sc 1 (5)

R16: Ch 1, turn, sc 1, sk 1, sc 2, 2sc 1 (5)

R17: Ch 1, turn 2sc 1, sc 2, sk 1, sc 1 (5)

R18: Ch 1, turn, sc 1, sk 1, sc 3 (4)

R19: Ch 1, turn, sc 2, sk 1, sc 1 (3)

R20: Ch 1, turn, sc 1, sk 1, sc 1 (2)

R21: Ch 1, turn, sk 1, sl st 1 (1)

Break yarn, pull through. Sew in the ends at the tips of the wings. Then sew in the long ends towards the upper, inner middle of each wing, so they peak out exactly where you want to sew them onto the angel’s back.

Firmly attach the wings sewing downwards a few stitches, and sewing back upwards again. Weave in the ends and hide them inside the body/dress.

More Amigurumi Christmas Tree Ornament Ideas

You will need

Size 4 worsted weight yarn
75g of light brown (I used I Love This Yarn in Toasted Almond)
25g color of choice for dress
Small amount of white
Small amount of yarn for bow, ‘candy’ buttons, cheeks
3.5 mm crochet hook
12 mm safety eyes
Black crochet thread for smile and eyelashes (yarn works as well)
Scissors
Tapestry needle (Bent tip needles work the best!)
Stuffing
Stitch markers

Abbreviations

SC- Single crochet
SC INC- Single crochet increase
INV DEC- Invisible decrease
BLO – Back loop only
HDC – Half double crochet
DC – Double crochet

Note

Slowly stuff as you go, you want it to be firm but not stretched. You will be working in the round, I like using a stitch marker at the beginning of each round.

Legs and Body

Legs: Make 2 – Using light brown
Round 1: Create a magic circle with 6 SC
Round 2: SC INC in each stitch (12 SC)
Round 3: SC in the first stitch, SC INC in the next stitch, rep around (18 SC)
Round 4: SC in the first 2 stitches, SC INC in the next stitch, rep around (24 SC)
Round 5: SC in the first 3 stitches, SC INC in the next stitch, rep around (30 SC)
Rounds 6-8: SC around (30 SC)
Round 9: SC in the first 3 stitches, INV DEC in the next, rep around (24 SC)
Round 10: SC in the first 2 stitches, INV DEC in the next, rep around (18 SC) Change to white (Optional: Carry the light brown to avoid tying off)
Rounds 11-12: SC around (18 SC) Change to light brown
Rounds 13-24: SC around (18 SC)
Fasten off (when you finish the 2nd leg do not fasten off, proceed to round 25)
*Round 25 joins the legs together and starts the body
Round 25: Chain 3 and attach to the first leg with a SC, SC in the remaining stitches around the leg, when you reach the chain make a SC across each of the 3 chains, SC in the remaining stitches of the next leg and SC across each of the 3 chains (42 SC) This completes your join and is where your next round will start.

Rounds 26-28: SC around (42 SC) Change to dress color
Round 29: SC around (42 SC)
Round 30: SC in BLO (42 SC)
Rounds 31-41: SC around (42 SC)
Round 42: SC in the first 5 stitches, INV DEC, rep around (36 SC)
Round 43: SC in the first 4 stitches, INV DEC, rep around (30 SC)
Round 44: SC around (30 SC)
Change to light brown
Round 45: SC in the first 3 stitches, INV DEC, rep around (24 SC)
Rounds 46-47: SC around (24 SC) Fasten off and leave a long tail for sewing

Dress

With dress color create a slip knot and attach with a slip stitch to one of the front loops from round 30 (For a cleaner look attach at the back of the body)
Round 1: Ch 1, DC in the same stitch and in each stitch around, join with a slip stitch to the first DC (42 DC)
Rounds 2-3: Ch 1, DC around, join with a slip stitch to the first DC (42 DC)
Round 4: Ch 1, sl st in same stitch, 3 DC in each of next two stitches, skip 1 stitch, sl st, skip 1 stitch rpt around for a total of 8 scallops, join with a sl st.
Fasten off and weave in end

Cheeks (Make 2)

With pink
Create a magic circle with 6 HDC, join to the first HDC and fasten off leaving a long tail for sewing

Head

With light brown
Round 1: Create a magic circle with 6 SC
Round 2: SC INC in each stitch around (12 SC)
Round 3: SC in the first stitch, SC INC in the next, rep around (18 SC)
Round 4: SC in the first 2 stitches, SC INC in the next, rep around (24 SC)
Round 5: SC in the first 3 stitches, SC INC in the next, rep around (30 SC)
Round 6: SC in the first 4 stitches, SC INC in the next, rep around (36 SC)
Round 7: SC in the first 5 stitches, SC INC in the next, rep around (42 SC)
Round 8: SC in the first 6 stitches, SC INC in the next, rep around (48 SC)
Round 9: SC in the first 7 stitches, SC INC in the next, rep around (54 SC)
Rounds 10-18: SC around (54 SC)

Note

*Here is where we will add the facial feature before we start closing the head. Insert the eyes between rows 15 and 16, 7 stitches apart.
*Using crochet thread or yarn embroider a smile by making a ‘U’ or ‘V’, I placed mine centered between the eyes 4 rows down. Lastly, sew the cheeks between rounds 11 and 13 just outside of the eyes.

Round 19: SC in the first 7 stitches, INV DEC in the next, rep around (48 SC)
Round 20: SC in the first 6 stitches, INV DEC in the next, rep around (42 SC)
Round 21: SC in the first 5 stitches, INV DEC in the next, rep around (36 SC)
Round 22: SC in the first 4 stitches, INV DEC in the next, rep around (30 SC)
Round 23: SC in the first 3 stitches, INV DEC in the next, rep around (24 SC) *Continue to stuff the head firmly
Round 24: SC in the first 2 stitches, INV DEC in the next, rep around (18 SC)
Round 25: SC in the first stitch, INV DEC in the next, rep around (12 SC)
Round 26: INV DEC around (6 SC)
Fasten off and sew remaining part closed, weave in your end.

Frosting Hair Cap

With white
Round 1: Create a magic circle with 6 SC
Round 2: SC INC in each stitch around (12 SC)
Round 3: SC in the first stitch, SC INC in the next, rep around (18 SC)
Round 4: SC in the first 2 stitches, SC INC in the next, rep around (24 SC)
Round 5: SC in the first 3 stitches, SC INC in the next, rep around (30 SC)
Round 6: SC in the first 4 stitches, SC INC in the next, rep around (36 SC)
Round 7: SC in the first 5 stitches, SC INC in the next, rep around (42 SC)
Round 8: SC in the first 6 stitches, SC INC in the next, rep around (48 SC)
Round 9: SC in the first 7 stitches, SC INC in the next, rep around (54 SC)
Rounds 10-12: SC around (54 SC)
Round 13: Sl st, 3 DC in each of next two stitches, skip 1 stitch, sl st, skip 1 stitch rpt around for a total of 11 scallops, join with a sl st.
Fasten off leaving a long tail for sewing

Arms (Make 2)

Lightly stuff the bottom of the arms only
With light brown
Round 1: Create a magic circle with 6 SC
Round 2: SC INC in each stitch around (12 SC)
Round 3: SC in the first 3 stitches, SC INC, rep around (15 SC)
Rounds 4-5: SC around (15 SC)
Round 6: SC in the first stitch, INV DEC, rep around (10 SC)
Change to white
(Optional: Feel free to carry your yarn as we did with the legs)
Rounds 7-8: SC around (10 SC) Change to light brown
Rounds 9-12: SC around (10 SC) Change to dress color
Rounds 13-20: SC around (10 SC)
At the end of round 20 pinch the arm flat and make 5 SC across the top to close, fasten off and leave a long tail to sew onto the body.

Bow

Working in a magic circle make 7 DCs, slip stitch, 7 DCs, and slip stitch again, pull your string tight and wrap it around the middle of the bow 4 times. Tie/secure in the back and cut your string leaving a long section to sew with

Candy Buttons

Make two with colors of choice
Create a magic circle with 8 HDC, join to the first HDC and fasten off with a long tail for sewing

Assembly

1.Sew the frosting cap onto the head. For a cleaner look when sewing grab a stitch from underneath the cap as pictured below.

2. Sew your bow in place
3. Sew the head to the body, making sure the facial features are centered. Add extra stuffing as you go to keep it tight and less shaky
4. Then, in round 46, sew the arms to the body centered on the head.
5. Finally, sew the candy buttons as in the master image

More Amigurumi Gingerbread Ideas

You will need

red yarn, 38 g
white yarn, 20 g
fuzzy white yarn, 13 g
light grey yarn , 55 g
dark grey yarn , 4 g
2.75 mm crochet hook (with red, dark grey, and light grey yarn), 4 mm crochet hook (with fuzzy white yarn)
Yarn needle (bent tip helpful for attaching amigurumi part)
fiberfill
pink felt (for lining of ears)
9 mm safety eyes
black embroidery floss or thin cotton yarn
glue gun
decorative floral wiring (12 gauge)
Clover lock ring stitch markers
dog slicker brush (optional)

Note

• I worked in continuous rounds (vs. joined rounds) unless otherwise indicated.
• For a cleaner colour change, when working last stitch in old colour: work as if typical single crochet until two stitches are left on the hook (i.e. insert hook into stitch, yarn over, pull up a loop).  Use new colour to yarn over and pull through both loops.  Work slip stitch in next stitch using new colour.  Then continue crocheting single crochets as normal with new colour.

Stocking

We will begin with the toe of the stocking. Using white yarn and 2.75 mm hook,
Round 1: 6 sc in Magic Ring. (6 sts)
R2: Inc around. (12 sts)
R3: Sc 1, Inc, rep 6 times. (18 sts)
R4: Sc 2, Inc, rep 6 times. (24 sts)
R5: Sc 3, Inc, rep 6 times. (30 sts)
R6: Sc 4, Inc, rep 6 times. (36 sts)
R7: Sc 5, Inc, rep 6 times. (42 sts)
R8-15: Sc 42
R16: Sc 6. Switch to red yarn, Sc 36. (42 sts)
R17-18: Sc 42
R19: Sc 20, Inc, rep 2 times. (44 sts)
R20-24: Sc 44
Place stitch marker in last stitch of round (1st stitch marker- green in pic below). DO NOT CUT RED YARN (we will continue working with this after the heel is complete). Count 17 stitches clockwise and place stitch marker (2nd stitch marker- peach in pic). This 2nd marker is where we will begin working in turned rounds to make the heel!

We will be working back and forth in turned rows for this part.
Using white yarn, join in stitch where second stitch marker (peach) is located,
Row 1: Sc 22.
Rows 2-7: Chain 1, turn. Starting from second chain from hook, Sc 22.
Chain 10, slip stitch to first single crochet of Row 7.

Now we will begin working in continuous unjoined rounds to form the back heel of the stocking:
Round 1: Single crochet around heel, then back loops of Chain 10 (i.e. Sc 21, Sc 10 in back loops only, Sc 1) (32 sts)
R2: Sc 2, Dec, rep 8 times. (24 sts)
R3: Sc 1, Dec, rep 8 times. (16 sts)
R4: Dec, rep 8 times. (8 sts)
R5: Dec, rep 4 times. (4 sts)
Fasten off.

Now, we will begin the upper body of the stocking! Work in continuous unjoined rounds.
Starting in the stitch where you placed the 1st stitch marker (green) and where working red yarn is located.
Round 1: Sc 44 (my numbers were: Sc 16 for the red part, Sc 22 for the white part [using resultant front loops], Sc 6 for the red part).

R2-22: Sc 44 (44 sts)
Fasten off.
Fuzzy rim of stocking:
Using fuzzy white yarn and 4 mm hook,
Chain 31, slip stitch to first chain to join.
Round 1: Chain 1 (counts as 1 sc), Sc 30, sl st to join. (31 sts)
R2-6: Repeat R1.
Fasten off, leave long end for sewing. When working with fuzzy yarn, the “wrong” side is fuzzier. Thus, ensure that the wrong side is facing outwards.

Sew fuzzy rim to top of stocking so that first round of fuzzy rim overlaps with last round of red stocking.
Optional: Use dog slicker brush to brush the yarn to make it even fuzzier.
Stuff stocking with fiberfill to help it keep its rounded shape.

CAT

Head

Using light grey yarn and 2.75 mm hook,
Chain 7 (this is the foundation chain).
Round 1: Starting from second chain from hook, Sc 6 in back loops of foundation chain. Turn and Sc 6 in front loops of the foundation chain [we are making an oval by crocheting around the chain]. (12 sts)
R2: Inc, Sc 4, Inc x 2, Sc 4, Inc. (16 sts)
R3: Inc x 2, Sc 5, Inc x 3, Sc 5, Inc. (22 sts)
R4: Inc x 3, Sc 7, Inc x 3, Sc 9. (28 sts)
R5: Sc 1, Inc x 3, Sc 11, Inc x 3, Sc 10. (34 sts)
R6: Sc 2, Sc 4, Inc, rep 6 times, Sc 2. (40 sts)
R7-16: Sc 40
R17: Sc 3, dec, rep 8 times. (32 sts)
Insert 9 mm safety eyes between rounds 13 and 14, 8 stitches apart. Embroider nose and whiskers using black embroidery floss or thin cotton yarn. Embroider nose between rounds 13 and 14. Embroider 2 whiskers on each side between Rounds 13/14 and 14/15 Begin stuffing head.
R18: Sc 2, dec, rep 8 times. (24 sts)
R19: Sc 2, dec, rep 6 times. (18 sts).
R20: Sc 1, dec, rep 6 times. (12 sts)
Continue stuffing.
R21: Dec, rep 6 times. (6 sts)
Fasten off.

Stripes (Make 3)

Using dark grey yarn and 2.75 mm hook,
Chain 18. Fasten off and leave long end for sewing. Each stripe measured 3.15″/8 cm . Sew stripes on top of cat’s head using tapestry needle. We placed them so that the fronts of the stripes are located between Rounds 8 and 9.

Ears (Make 2)

Using light grey yarn and 2.75 mm hook,
Round 1: 4 sc in Magic Ring.
R2: Inc, rep 4 times. (8 sts)
R3: Sc 1, Inc, rep 4 times. (12 sts)
R4: Sc 3, Inc, rep 3 times. (15 sts)
R5: Sc 4, Inc, rep 3 times. (18 sts)
R6: Sc 5, Inc, rep 3 times. (21 sts)
Fasten off and leave long end for sewing. Cut triangles out of pink felt and hot glue onto ears as lining. Sew ears onto head of cat.

Arms (Make 2)

Using dark grey yarn and 2.75 mm hook,
Round 1: 5 sc in Magic Ring. (5 sts)
R2: Inc, rep 5 times. (10 sts)
Optional: Embroider three black lines onto paws to form claws after Round 3.
R3-5: Sc 10 (10 sts).
Switch to light grey yarn,
R6-14: Sc 10 (10 sts)
Fasten off and leave long end for sewing. Cut decorative floral wiring and bend tip. Insert into arm so that bent tip is at paw. Gently stuff.

Attach onto bottom of cat’s head as pictured below.

Shape arms into S curve.

Tail

Using dark grey yarn and 2.75 mm hook,
Round 1: 4 sc in Magic Ring (4 sts).
R2: Inc, rep 4 times (8 sts).
R3-7: Sc 8 (8 sts).
Stuff lightly as you go.
Switch to light grey yarn,
R8-47: Sc 8 (8 sts)
My finished tail measured 10.5″/26.7 cm. Keep adding rounds to desired length.

Assembly

Fasten off and leave long end for sewing. Cut decorative floral wire and insert into tail.
Attach 1.25″/3 cm of tail to inside of stocking using fuzzy white yarn (so that seam is not visible from outside of stocking).
Carefully position cat’s head onto tail and attach 1.5″/3.8 cm together using grey yarn.
Check to make sure that the cat’s head and arms will cover the opening of the stocking at resting position.
Cat’s head should be able to pivot up and down so that items can be placed in the stocking.

You will need

Gray yarn:(200 m/50 g) 100% acrylic
Red and white yarn: (400m/100g) 100% acrylic
2.5 mm crochet hook
Yarn needle
Fiberfill

Crochet with two threads!!! (a nose with one)

Abbreviations

R – row
ch – chain
st – stitch
sc – single crochet
inc – increase (2 sc in one stitch)
dec – decrease (2 sc together)
[…] – number of stitches you should have at the end of the row
(…) – repeat whatever is between the brackets the given number of times

Arms (make 2)

With gray yarn:
R 1: 7 sc in magic ring [7]
R 2-7: 7 sc (6 rows)
Switch to sweater colour:
R 8-25: 7 sc (18 rows)

Legs (make 2)

With gray yarn:
R 1: 10 sc in magic ring [10]
R 2-21: 10 sc (20 rows)
Don’t cut the yarn when you’ll finish the second leg.
Continue crocheting the body, starting from the second leg.

Body

R 1: crochet 8 ch from the 2nd leg and join it with the 1st leg, 10 sc on 1st leg, sc in next 8 ch, 10 sc on 2nd leg, sc in next 8 ch (opposite side) [36]
R 2-5: 36 sc (4 rows)
Switch to sweater colour:
R 6-13: 36 sc (8 rows)
R 14: (5 sc, dec) repeat 5 times [30]
R 15: 30 sc
R 16: (4 sc, dec) repeat 5 times [25]
R 17: 25 sc
R 18: (3 sc, dec) repeat 5 times [20]
R 19: 20 sc
R 20: join arms [20]
R 21: 20 sc

Ears (make 2)

R 1: 6 sc in magic ring [6]
R 2: (inc) repeat 6 times [12]
R 3: (1 sc, inc) repeat 6 times [18]
R 4-5: 18 sc (2 rows)
R 6: (1 sc, dec) repeat 6 times [12]
R 7: 12 sc
R 8: (1 sc, dec) repeat 4 times [8]
R 9-10: 8 sc (2 rows)

Horns (make 2)

Long Part(make 1)
R 1: 6 sc in magic ring [6]
R 2: 6 sc
and so on…
Make 8 cm long.

Short Part(make 2)
R 1: 6 sc in magic ring [6]
R 2: 6 sc
and so on…
Make 2 cm long.

Sew long part with two pieces short part.

Nose

R 1: 6 sc in magic ring [6]
R 2: (inc) repeat 6 times [12]
R 3: (1 sc, inc) repeat 6 times [18]
R 4: (2 sc, inc) repeat 6 times [24]
R 5: (3 sc, inc) repeat 6 times [30]
R 6: (4 sc, inc) repeat 6 times [36]
R 7: (5 sc, inc) repeat 6 times [42]

Fourfold the nose flat and sew.

Head-Muzzle

R 1: 6 sc in magic ring [6]
R 2: (inc) repeat 6 times [12]
R 3: (1 sc, inc) repeat 6 times [18]
R 4: (2 sc, inc) repeat 6 times [24]
R 5: (3 sc, inc) repeat 6 times [30]
R 6: (4 sc, inc) repeat 6 times [36]
R 7: (5 sc, inc) repeat 6 times [42]
R 8-13: 42 sc (6 rows)
R 14: (5 sc, dec) repeat 6 times [36]
R 15: 36 sc
R 16: (4 sc, dec) repeat 6 times [30]
R 17: 30 sc
R 18: (3 sc, dec) repeat 6 times [24]
R 19-22: 24 sc (4 rows)
R 23: (3 sc, inc) repeat 6 times [30]
R 24: 30 sc
R 25: (3 sc, dec) repeat 6 times [24]
R 26: (2 sc, dec) repeat 6 times [18]
Insert eyes and stuff.
R 27: (1 sc, dec) repeat 6 times [12]
R 28: (dec) repeat 6 times [6]

More Amigurumi Deer Ideas

You will need

DK (8ply) weight Cotton Light (100% cotton; 50g / 105m) – white, red and green
small amount of woollen yarn for embroidering the hair
crochet hook 3 mm
polyester fiberfill
safety eyes (Ø 6mm)
pink felt
snowflake button
3 tiny buttons for the coat
black embroidery thread for the face and clothing
darning and embroidery needles

Abbreviations:

ch – chain, sc – single crochet, st(s) – stitch(es), rep – repeat

*WORK IN CONTINUOUS ROUNDS. DO NOT JOIN OR TURN UNLESS OTHERWISE INSTRUCTED.
*IT WOULD BE WISE TO USE A STITCH MARKER AND PLACE IT IN THE FIRST STITCH OF EACH ROUND TO MARK THE BEGINNING OF IT.
*LEAVE EACH PIECE A LONG TAIL FOR SEWING.

Head

Crochet from top to bottom.
R1: White color. Start 6 sc in a magic ring [6]
R2: Work 2 sc in each st around [12]
R3: (Sc in next st, 2 sc in next st) rep 6 times [18]
R4: (Sc in each of next 2 sts, 2 sc in next st) rep 6 times [24]
R5: (Sc in each of next 3 sts, 2 sc in next st) rep 6 times [30]
R6: (Sc in each of next 4 sts, 2 sc in next st) rep 6 times [36]
R7: (Sc in each of next 5 sts, 2 sc in next st) rep 6 times [42]
R8-R16: Sc in each st around
Fasten safety eyes between round 12. and 13. Insert the first eye between them, then count 3 holes to the left and insert the second eye in the next hole. Close the washers from the inside of the piece.
R17: (Sc in each of next 5 sts, sc2tog) rep 6 times [36]
R18: (Sc in each of next 4 sts, sc2tog) rep 6 times [30]
R19: (Sc in each of next 3 sts, sc2tog) rep 6 times [24]
R20: (Sc in each of next 2 sts, sc2tog) rep 6 times [18]
Fill the head with fiberfill.

Ear (Make 2)

R1: White color. Start 6 sc in a magic ring [6]
R2: Sc in next 4 sts, 2 sc in next 2 sts [8]
R3: Sc in next 5 sts, 2 sc in next 2 sts, sc in next st [10]
R4: Sc in next 6 sts, 2 sc in next 2 sts, sc in next 2 sts [12]
R5: Sc in each st around
R6: Sc2tog around [6]
Attach the ears at rounds 14 and 15. Embroider a huge mouth and stitch tiny eyebrows. Cut cheeks of felt and sew them to the corners of the mouth.

Hat

R1: White color. Start 6 sc in a magic ring [6]
R2: Work 2 sc in each st around [12]
R3-R4: Sc in each st around
Stuff the tassel.
R5: (Sc in next st, skip next st) 6 times [6]
R6: Continue in red color. Sc in each st around
R7: Sc in next 5 sts, 2 sc in next st [7]
R8: Sc in next 3 sts, 2 sc in next st, sc in next 3 sts [8]
R9: Sc in next 7 sts, 2 sc in next st [9]
R10: Sc in next 4 sts, 2 sc in next st, sc in next 4 sts [10]
R11: Sc in next 9 sts, 2 sc in next st [11]
R12: Sc in next 5 sts, 2 sc in next st, sc in next 5 sts [12]
R13: Sc in next 11 sts, 2 sc in next st [13]
R14: Sc in next 6 sts, 2 sc in next st, sc in next 6 sts [14]
R15: Sc in next 13 sts, 2 sc in next st [15]
R16: Sc in next 7 sts, 2 sc in next st, sc in next 7 sts [16]
R17: Sc in next 15 sts, 2 sc in next st [17]
R18: Sc in next 8 sts, 2 sc in next st, sc in next 8 sts [18]
R19: (Sc in next 5 sts, 2 sc in next st) rep 3 times [21]
R20: Sc in each st around
R21: (Sc in next 6 sts, 2 sc in next st) rep 3 times [24]
R22: Sc in each st around
R23: (Sc in next 3 sts, 2 sc in next st) rep 6 times [30]
R24: (Sc in next 4 sts, 2 sc in next st) rep 6 times [36]
R25: (Sc in next 5 sts, 2 sc in next st) rep 6 times [42]
R26-R29: Sc in each st around
Add a small amount of stuffing into the hat. Attach the hat to the head slightly off to one side. Embroider some hair. Attach a snowflake button to the hat.

Legs and Body

Crocheted in one piece, from the bottom up. The body starts with two legs, which are later crocheted together.
R1: White color. Start 6 sc in a magic ring [6]
R2: Work 2 sc in each st around [12]
R3: (Sc in next 3 sts, 2 sc in next st) rep 3 times [15]
R4-R8: Continue in green color. Sc in each st around
Fasten off, leaving a short yarn tail. Put the first leg aside and crochet the second leg with the same instructions. Do not fasten off the second leg, we will continue crocheting on this leg to make the body.
R9: In this round we will join the legs. Sc in the next 2 sts on the second leg, sc in each of next 15 sts around the first leg, continue 13 sc around the second leg. In the end of the round you have joined the legs into one piece [30]
R10: Sc in each st around
Close the hole between the legs using the short yarn tail left for the first leg.
R11: (Sc in the next 8 sts, sc2tog) rep 3 times [27]
R12-R13: White color. Sc in each st around
R14: Red color. Sc in each st around
R15: (Sc in the next 7 sts, sc2tog) rep 3 times [24]
R16: Sc in each st around
Fill the legs and body, keep stuffing as you go.
R17: (Sc in the next 6 sts, sc2tog) rep 3 times [21]
R18-R19: Sc in each st around
R20: (Sc in the next 5 sts, sc2tog) rep 3 times [18]
R21: Sc in each st around
Sew the head to the body. With black thread emboider two lines – between rounds 11 and 12 and between rounds 13 and 14. Stitch a buckle on the front.

Arm (Make 2)

R1: White color. Start 6 sc in a magic ring [6]
R2: Work 2 sc in each st around [12]
R3: Sc in each st around
R4: Red color. Sc in each st around
R5: (Sc in next 2 sts, sc2tog) rep 3 times [9]
R6-R7: Sc in each st around
Fill only the tip of the arm.
R8: (Sc in next st, sc2tog) rep 3 times [6]
R9: Sc in each st around
Sew the arms to the body. Embellish the coat with 3 little buttons.

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